My Murray Fish: On the Wall
Jamie's Blog Here

I really love my Jamie Murray fish. Been riding it for over a year now and had it out in everything from the neck cracking close-out barrels of Doran Beach, to the chunky windblown Salmon days, to soft and shapely Costa Rica, also some trips to Southern Cal and point surf of Santa Cruz. Of course I’ve had it out in some of those north coast days where it all came together with perfect bars, tides, size, friends. I’ve had a few of those too, well maybe a couple.

My approach to these spots, their waves and all those sessions has evolved across these 14-months and I believe I owe it to this board that Jamie shaped for me. The shift was really about the mindset that my fish (or me on my fish) really wants to stay 'on the wall'. Wall speed, wall angles, wall shapes, …glide, snap, stall, whatever as long as it’s “on the wall.” I have a lot to learn about this, because in the past I’ve been caught up just trying to get to the bottom and the top of the wave.

The board:
This board is NOT a hybrid this or retro that. It is a fish  5’8” with that characteristic deep swallow tail. It’s nice and thick in the middle with a good expanse of low curvature for speed. The only modern additions are 1. It’s a quad, and 2. it has a single winger cut about 10” from the bottom.





Wall Love
We were told (next to the barbecue by Drew R. a couple summers ago) about a unique idea and design element of the first fish boards (with the classic combo of ‘broad keel’ twin fins and deep swallow tail). This idea was --> that when you set up and trim on a solid and steep wave, the cue is edged in with one half of that swallow and its corresponding fin (keel). You setup on a wall in this manner and, voila! You are riding a single fin pintail replete with all it’s speed, tracking, glide and drawn out lines. This is just something that I heard and I found it interesting, but I can tell you I DO NOT surf this way. I probably should, but I don’t.

Where I find ‘wall love’, and my favorite sessions, is when I break out of my tendency to want to go straight to the bottom (bottom turn) then back straight up to the top turn. I’ve found my best fish sessions happen when I get into turns well before the bottom of the wave and really strive to do all pumping, cutbacking, trim, gouge, etc. all on the wall. The Murray fish really “fits” into this world and is really crying out for that critically hot energy.

Rasta is seen right here, staying --> "On the Wall"



Check out Jamie's Blog Here. There is some excellent prose and pics of boards, surf and random scruff

New Board Report to Dave Vernor from Jack Murphy

Dave – Here’s my report on the new board you just made for me. Since I’m posting it on the blog where others will see it I’ll list here that my board is:

Length - 6’8”
Tail - Round Pin
With Suspension
Material - Poly (not EPS)
Fin Setup – Quad
Thickness - 2 7/16"


First I want say that I just had (on Saturday Jan. 10th) one of the best surf sessions I've ever had ...ever!!! Before I talk about my turns, drops and cutbacks, I should mention the conditions were also some of my favorite: 5-8 foot waves on a wide open west-facing beach break working on the outer bars. Generally glassy with light puffs of offshores and the peak we were working was fairly broad, although serving up plenty of workable shoulders and also long walls along the beginning section (peak) that you could race along with a good chance of making it. Not really breaking top-to-bottom, but more rampy. So you get the picture. It was my second session on the board and we surfed for about 2.5 hours. Just for the record I was with Jon Day and his friend Heather from Carpenteria.

Top Turns
My turns at (or near) the lip were pretty frequent and what I remember about them was how controlled they felt. By controlled I mean that I really felt locked in during my turns and it really seemed that once committing to my turn it actually unfolded along this broad radius. This is SOOOO different than what I've been experiencing on my 5'8" quad fish, which is more like skating to the coping in a pool by rising to the top then snapping around and coming straight back down. Don't know if this really captures the experience but the short statement is I was really able to carve turns. Which brings me to the next point...

Cutbacks
Every time I got in the middle of my turns (and that controlled radius) I just felt so psyched to just gouge in deep and complete the circle with a gratifying cutback. Now mind you, I'm not trying to say that I am good enough to do this amazing 540 degree Tom Curran cutback, but I am saying they felt GOOD, ...really good. And I came out of them with speed and was able to do it all over again on the same wave. That's bordering on unprecedented for me and I was just so fired up after some of my rides. So happy. So fun.

Down the line speed
I really felt the speed of this board, and mostly in cases where I had to pump around a falling section. Also immediately after bottom turns. There was one particularly steep drop going backside where (with my limited skill) it was all I could do to make the drop, then hold steady on my rail to make the racing wall. It was fast, it was stable and extremely fun. And the fact the wave was a few feet overhead, it was also a pretty decent testament to the fact that this was also meant to be my stepup board.

Drops
I caught so many waves and made some pretty steep drops. So I'm happy I went with Poly instead of EPS.

Well that's it. I hope you appreciate the write-up because I REALLY appreciate what you've made. Amazing quality and it really hit the mark for me.

Feel free to cut and paste this for your site if you'd like or better yet you can link to this post which would be really cool too to see some connections over from your website. Take care and "Keep surfing. No matter what."

Jack

Surfrider Foundation Mtg. in Valley Ford Jan. 29th!

Sonoma Coast Chapter
The Surfrider Foundation

Is having a REORGANIZATION meeting
PLUS
Bonus 1Hr Local Video from Sun 11/30/08!

Thursday January 29th
at 7:30pm
Rocker Oysterfellers @
VALLEY FORD INN
14415 Hwy 1, Valley Ford Ca
http://www.rockeroysterfellers.com


This meeting is to identify people that would
be interested in volunteering to help run our
local chapter. Its time for some new blood to
step forward and start putting some of your
good energy into operating the
Sonoma Coast Chapter

The Surfrider Foundation is a non-profit environmental organization dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of the World’s waves, oceans and beaches, for all people, through conservation, activism, research and education.

Shark at the local....

The following report of a Great White Shark attack was provided by the Shark Research Committee:

Dillon Beach — On December 20, 2008, Tony Johnson reported the following:

“Lucy, Anders, Cristina, Bill, Gordon, Jonathan and I were returning from a beautiful day of paddling. We were all gathered just south of Tamales Head in front of Dillon Beach. The group was deciding on surfing options when I asked Lucy if she wouldn’t mind if I went in. While going in I remember trying to make a conscious effort to use proper torso rotation and form while using my Greenland paddle. When half-way through my right stroke, a Great White Shark, with a girth larger than the width of my 22-inch kayak, hit my paddle from behind with such force that it slammed me forward to the front of my deck. Feeling the turbulence on my boat I sat up in shock at the speed, power, and size of this creature. I wish there were some way I could relate, or explain, how fast this creature was in water. I was facing the beach with my paddle out of the water, holding it in preparation for a second hit and saying to myself, ’stay frosty.’ I was afraid to move and started yelling to my group that was behind me, ‘Great White’ – ‘Great White.’ I did this for several seconds before I decided to turn the boat around and head for the group. I stayed very still and slowly extended my paddle to turn towards the group. While turning the boat I looked to my right and there, 15–20 feet away, was the Great White, its dorsal fin out of the water. Its dorsal fin was large and shredded at the tip. The Great White was moving slowly, turning with my boat, this really caused me to panic and I paddled as fast as I could to the group yelling ‘Great White’ many times until someone heard me. We all gathered together and paddled in to Dillon Beach. While on the beach I examined the paddle and there were no bite marks, which I can’t explain.”

Caution should be exercised when utilizing this location for your ocean water activities. Please report any shark sighting, encounter, or attack to the Shark Research Committee.

Quick Post - "Is this the wave of the future?"

Talk amongst yourselves...

The V is not just for Vernor

I had quite a revelation yesterday when I watched the video posted by Dave Vernor on his website describing his I-beam Suspension technology. In the past I've heard various explanations about rails, tails, and fin placement/design. Never really been able to connect the dots on how it improves the glide. But when I watched this video and reflected on my experience on his board I really got it.

Check the video here to see if you "get it":
http://www.vernorsurfboards.com/videos/vernor-i-beam-suspension.wmv

Go to the entire page here for the whole story:
http://www.vernorsurfboards.com/tech.html

I always wondered about the black cloth laid near the tail in the shape of a "V". Dave and I spoke for a long-time in preparation for my board order and I'll make a separate blog post about that positive experience. Anyway, this technology "really" makes a difference! I've been test driving Drew's 6'8" epoxy with this feature and WOW you can really drive around sections. Bottom line -- I have more speed coming out of turns and I can generate speed down the line. More to come...

Surfer Myopia: jday 10/08

You’ll have to forgive me, but I don’t get out very often, Outside of my life as a surfer that is. I’m one of those guys. I’ve been surfing for nearly thirty five years. For the better part of that thirty-five my life has revolved around the phases of the moon, long v.s. short interval, and the battle between densely packed air molecules and more loosely packed ones rushing to and away from each other in their struggle for space and identity. To tell you the truth, I don’t see this myopia as a problem very often. I consider my position in this universe to be a very fortunate one. I mean, really, would I rather be concerned with which portion of the ocean floor and what wind direction are going to be the best match for tomorrow’s swell or whether some complete nutcase like Al Davis is going to rock my world by pulling another idiotic maneuver and fire his head coach. That’s a classic no brainer.

My personal version of surfer myopia was challenged this summer when my father, a long-time mountain climber, asked me to join him on a climb for what would be the sixtieth anniversary of his first ascent of The Grand Teton, just outside Jackson, Wyoming. Now, I have always had lion’s sized respect for mountain climbers. I see many parallels between their obsession and my own. For example, jobs, relationships, and responsibilities all lost in pursuit of the reward which is rendered in the face of natural forces which could swat your head off like a grape if they so desired but instead, leave you with a feeling somewhere between having conquered and made love to the most powerful forces nature has to offer. This life changing challenge was not contained in the intense physical exertion that was required of me over the seven day period I was involved in the climb. Nor was it lodged in the fact that this time I was the kook. I am not used to that. It did not even reside in the fact that I broke bread with people whose priorities I both admired and respected who weren’t even surfers. No, the real challenge was purely psychological and emotional. It was the way the community of advanced and expert climbers treated both one another and the kooks of climbing, like me.

In surfing, kooks get some pretty harsh treatment. Sometimes, we scowl at them. Sometimes, we swear at them. Sometimes, we even punch them in the face or damage their personal property. Most often we teach kooks a lesson because they do things which endanger or take pleasure away from us more experienced, superior surfers. We rarely take it upon ourselves to step in and speak in a respectful tone about how an illperforming or misbehaving kook could change their ways to improve the safety and pleasure of all involved. And the net result of this path of behavior is more anger, between kooks and experienced surfers, and less safety, because no one wants to be shown up, beat up or disrespected. Even worse, the sport as a whole is no better off, because the kook still does not know the proper way to perform or act. How smart are we?

Many times over the course of my time in the mountains I was witness to experienced climbers taking it upon themselves to seriously but graciously inform and even teach novice/kook climbers techniques which would make the mountains more pristine, safer, and fun for all who were there. Sure they could have gone about it differently and been downright intimidating. In some situations, where a kook could have easily been killed, it even seemed appropriate, but the advanced climbers chose not to. Perhaps they understand that if you have a bunch of tense people engaging in a dangerous activity it becomes even more dangerous. Sure beginners need to understand the consequences of acting stupidly or getting in over their heads, but that message may be better transmitted with firmness and respect rather than mockery and ridicule. And with the realization of this question I arrive at many others.

When we school a kook, do we really want to make the line-up better? or do we just want to make someone feel like crap so as to make the failures in our own lives not seem so glaring? Do we really think we are going to return surfing to a better, simpler time? or are we just being greedy and myopic? Somehow, I hope we realize that we need to teach all new surfers firmly, graciously, and respectfully, because without the best efforts of all in love with the ocean, not just surfers, the inter-tidal zone will quickly become an unappealing concoction of cast off garbage, blooming algae, and fecal matter.

News from Sonoma Coast Surf Shop

NEWS -
Individual and Group Surfing Lessons are now available at Sonoma Coast Surf Shop.

$150 / person includes wetsuit and board rental, transportation and ocean instruction.
Call the shop to sign up now. 707.763.3860



Surfing Fitness
As for training to get in shape for surfing, there are several things you can do. If you belong to a gym, you can do a bunch of lifting using a bit lighter weights and higher reps to mimic the paddle stroke. By doing lighter weights and higher reps, you won't build any unnecessary bulk while maintaining aerobic strength for paddling. You could also incorporate a few "burst" sets which mimic the paddle stroke when trying to get into the wave. It is not a bad idea to strengthen your lower body as well (quads, gluts, and hamstrings) to make for stronger turns and to prevent potential knee injury.

If you don't use the gym, you can still maintain upper body strength through pushups (6x15), dips (3x20), and pull-ups ( 3 sets of how many you can bust out). DO NOT forget sit-ups. I recommend doing at least 200 4x/week of super solid sit-ups. Try to isolate your lower abs as these are the muscles which help prevent injury of the low back and aid in overall strength while paddling and maneuvering on the wave.
I would try to either run or bike a bit to maintain cardiovascular fitness. As surfers, I don't think we realize how high our heart rate gets while surfing, especially at OB where we fight hellacious currents and gnarly paddle-outs. Not to mention that cardiovascular fitness helps with recovery and enduring 3 sessions per day. I would try to run at least 30 minutes and to ride for at least 1 hour, 3X's per week.

You could always get in a swimming pool and swim at least a mile. There are always several public pools in every city.

AND NEVER FORGET TO STRETCH. Your muscles can not be at their full potential when tight. A little stretching goes a long way.

Camping at San Onofre

Spent four nights camping with my family at san o earlier this week. We had a site around trail six with no others campers within a quarter mile. A nice south swell showing every day.

Walked down to the beach a few evenings to enjoy the sunset with my family.





Mia's First Wave Ever



Enjoying new custom Vernor Round-tail quad on a few insiders

sunny day in marin

finally got a good session! this guy bob kranzie who photographs for surfpulse was taking some good shots yesterday and he snapped this one of me. if you think you cant find waves cause its windy, youre wrong!

Sic Shotz!

Have a great weekend everybody and hope you get some, ...wherever you are!


Around here we all wait patiently for these days. It's coming ...eventually.


I'm a sucker for these shots.

Solid Beachbreak

International Surf Day

6/20/2008 - Get out and catch some waves then clean up your beach. Come to the shop after for 20% off.

View my page on International Surfing Day

Continuing Tales from Central America

Drew,
Here is the video.



Its a little silly but it was fun to make. Im leaving for costa Rica on wendsday for three or four weeks, then going to head down to panama for three more. I've always wanted to see the canal so i think this is the time to do it then back to costa rica for one more week then Ill be heading to my moms In Georga for a week or two. then ill be coming home. hopefully by end of august. The surf has been great. Today has been the best so far we have a 8 to 12 ft swell and offshore wind about 15 knots perfect. and its going to stick around for a week. lots of great surfers down here. Fun to watch. I did get my first little barrel. What a feeling. Hope you enjoy the video.

Jacob

More tales from Central America

Drew,
The weather down here has been a lot better since the huricane and the waves are even better. Going out for two or three sessions a day. I'm geting a little better but still can't stick a barrel. soon. I made a silly little video of my trip so far i am going to put it on youtube to share. and blog away.

thanks Jacob

Nicaragua - Jacob's first installment from Centro

Hay, nicaragua is great. the surf has been so so. Got hit by hurricane Elma. made a huge mess of the whole beach. Will post pics and video soon. Iv never been so relaxed in my life. Have a new dog that has been paling around with me, no name yet. (chocolate lab) very cool little puppy she was on the beach and followed me home hasn't left yet. lots of reading and cards. I have made video that i will put on you tube as soon as i find a faster connection. Hope all is well.
Jacob